COVID update... you should check the website for all of these. many are temporarily closed, and some now are gone forever (I'm looking at you, Johnny White's ) I’m slowly making updates, but I wouldn’t trust anything at this point.
This was written for a friend who was staying at the Homewood on Rampart St. above the Quarter during the Christmas season. Distances might not apply to you., but the advice does.
To do...
Food:
1. GWFins. https://gwfins.com/ Name is stupid, but has the best seafood in the FQ, hands down. Menu changes daily. But, get the lobster dumplings, no matter what.
2. Irene's. No reservations taken. Bistro style Creole. Used to be, I would have said that you'll wait in line, but it's worth the wait… They have changed to a much larger location, and I believe the line is kind of a thing of the past.
3. Lunch(!) at Napoleon house. http://www.napoleonhouse.com/ The two of you can share a whole or half Muffaletta (don't let enayone tell you that Central Grocery's is better just because it was the first. Trust me, the Nap House is the best in the FQ), a cheese board, and absolutely do not miss getting a couple of Pimm's Cups.
4. Also lunch at K-Paul's http://www.kpauls.com/. A remarkably casual experience, but this is going to be a lot of heavy Cajun and Creole. Chef Paul Prudhomme was virtually single-handedly responsible for the rest of America finding out what Cajun was.
5. Predictably, Cafe du Monde for Coffee and Beignets. (Cafe au Lait, specifically). Counterintuitively, the best times are when they have a wait. If you go when you can just sit, the beignets tend to be a little on the not-fresh side. If they're busy, they will always have just come out of the fryer.
6. You can try Brennan's, which was historically the flagship high-end restaurant in the downtown/FQ area. They recently reopened, and I have not been since. There are a number of other Brennan family restaurants, if you want to go that route, at a lesser hoity-toity sort of level: Mr. B's, Bourbon House, Dickie Brennan's, Palace Cafe, Redfish Grill. All are strong, with my least favorite being Bourbon House. Redfish is Brennan food, with a wear-shorts kind of atmosphere.
7. Inexpensive intimate Italian can be had at Mona Lisa. https://www.yelp.com/biz/mona-lisa-new-orleans It's super casual, but the pasta is very good, and they give out crayons to draw on the table-paper. If you go during peak times, twenty minutes is an average wait.
8. Burgers and baked potatoes at Port of Call. https://portofcallnola.com/ I'll be honest, the only thing that makes the burgers special is their size, which is formidable. But, the Monsoon is a world-renowned drink, and can put you to bed early if not respected. You'll see lots of the 32-ounce white cups being toted around the Quarter. There's almost always a wait during regular dinner times. I have been known to hit this one around four in the afternoon, just to beat the rush.
9. Back to the high-end, Bayona is among my favorites. http://www.bayona.com/ If you eat sweetbreads, hers are the best I've ever had.
10. Pat O'Briens. Seems touristy, and it's a little more expensive than other bars. BUT, if you go right around sunset, into dusk, the flaming fountains are great to watch, and, despite no longer being made by hand, a hurricane served in a glass in that courtyard is still kind of a special moment. But, make SURE you get a seat in the courtyard.
11. Since you're in for the holidays, many restaurants do a Reveillon dinner in celebration. This was originally the meal you got after midnight mass on Christmas Eve. But, it has been extended to mean any special celebratory holiday season meal. Some restaurants are noted here: http://www.frenchquarter.com/reveillon-dinners/ But, many who are not named also do Reveillon. Doesn't hurt to check. (Pronounced "REVeeyon," or "REVayon," depending on how blueblood you are)
Food to Uber to:
1. If you can get into Brigtsen's (pronounced BRIGHT-sons) https://www.brigtsens.com/ I definitely recommend it. Reservations required (actually not, but walkins wait a long time) It's my favorite restaurant in the city. Haute Creole, served in one of three dining rooms in a converted sidehall cottage. (Think shotgun house, but with a hall down the length of one side)
2. Virtually a must do... Lunch at Parkway Bakery, in Mid City right off of Bayou St. John http://parkwaypoorboys.com/. Exceptional Roast Beef Po'Boy. I order the Surf and Turf, which is Roast Beef with debris gravy and Fried Shrimp. Do not wait in line to eat in the dining room. Go into the bar and take a seat in the bar room, and order from the bartender. You can bypass a forty-five minute wait that way.
3. Liuzza's on Bienville http://www.liuzzas.com/. Traditional Creole Italian joint. The Frenchuletta is my favorite in this place (a Muffuletta in Po'Boy form.) You'll get a full dose of what Yat culture is from the staff there (Yat comes from the traditional New Orleans Blue Collar greeting "Where y'at?", meaning "How's it going?" These folks are easily identifiable by the nearly-brooklyn accents over a generally southern attitude)
4. Elizabeth's in the Bywater for breakfast http://www.elizabethsrestaurantnola.com/. Standard breakfast joint, but I can't avoid the Maple Bacon. Great location in an OLD New Orleans neighborhood. (This one COULD be walked, but Uber is a better choice)
5. Once you're done stuffing your face at any of these, you can't go wrong with Angelo Brocato's, a century-old gelato joint and Italian bakery. I have one word... Stracciatella. Trust me. http://www.angelobrocatoicecream.com/
Other stuff:
1. Frenchmen St. in the Faubourg Marigny (said as just "the Marigny," pronounced MAIRinny) http://frenchmenstreetlive.com/. It's walkable from the quarter. Best way to go is go toward the river, take a left on Decatur St, and pick up Frenchmen where Decatur crosses Esplanade. Just walk the street popping in and out of places. This is a street littered with music clubs/bars of all types, and on Saturday night, there is street art, vendors, street food, and all kinds of fun stuff. If you run across the Gumbo Man selling gumbo out of the back of his pickup, grab a big styrofoam cup of this. It's shockingly good.
2. Snug Harbor (http://www.snugjazz.com/calendar) In the center of Frenchmen St. This place is literally the epicenter of current New Orleans jazz. This is a small, traditional jazz hall, and some of the biggest names in the world play here, cheaper than you can ever see them elsewhere.
3. Audubon Aquarium. https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/aquarium A medium-sized aquarium focused on Gulf, Swamp and River life.
4. Insectarium on Canal Street https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/insectarium. Bugs. Lots of bugs.
5. Next door to Pat O's is Preservation Hall. VERY small room, dedicated to preserving Jazz from the early 1900's. You can bring drinks in, but there is no bar, and no rest room. Shows are about an hour. These guys are not putting on an act. It's the Real Deal. http://preservationhall.com/hall/
6. Take the ferry (http://www.neworleansonline.com/tools/transportation/gettingaround/ferry.html) at the base of Canal St., next to the Aquarium across to the West Bank (ironically, southeast of the FQ), and have a drink at the Old Pointe Bar http://www.oldpointbarnola.com/, or at the Crown and Anchor https://crownandanchor.pub/, then ferry back. It's $2 per person per direction, but it offers a great view of the city from a vantage point you never get.
7. Mardi Gras beads... Take an Uber to Plush Appeal at 2811 Toulouse St http://www.mardigrasspot.com/. This is one of the four or so major Mardi Gras throw outlets that all of us Krewe riders buy our throws from. You can get all kinds of stuff that you'd pay through the nose for on Bourbon St. in any quantity you like. There are a lot of unique items that Boubon St. buyers never see, not the least of which is a huge selection of glass beads. If they ask you if you ride a Krewe, tell them you're new with Krewe of Tucks (that's mine, https:www.kreweoftucks.com ) and you'll get a discount.
8. You'll be there during the holidays. City Park (you can streetcar to it, which I recommend, despite being unpredictable, timing-wise) runs Celebration in the Oaks, which is generally beautiful. http://neworleanscitypark.com/celebration-in-the-oaks. Used to be Christmas in the Oaks, but with modern political correctness, the name is changed, and we've added a giant menorah. This is a walk-through holiday display, with a through-the-park mini train. Try and hit the "Cajun Night Before Christmas" display. It's lo-tech, but funny. After you're done with that, you can walk in the park over to Morning Call, which ALSO serves coffee and beignets. (The coffee is better than, but the beignets not as good as Cafe du Monde, but you do get to apply your own powdered sugar.)
9. TAKE A STREETCAR RIDE. http://norta.com/Getting-Around/Our-Streetcars I am a big fan of all of the lines, including the Rampart line that runs in front of your hotel. But, get on the St. Charles line (green cars) that start their run at Canal and Carondelet St. (Across Canal from the top of Bourbon St.) and head through the CBD, Garden District, Uptown and Carrollton. I'd take a ride mid-day, and get off the streetcar just after it makes its turn away from St. Charles uptown. Eat a greasy-spoon lunch at the Camellia Grille (The Doc Brinker and a Chocolate Freeze is my favorite), and then take the Streetcar back to the Quarter. It's an interesting ride on original equipment, built in 1923 and 1924. I insist on the St. Charles line, because all of the Red cars in service on other lines are modern and were either built for 1997 in New Orleans (Riverfront line) or for 2003 (Canal/Cemeteries, Rampart, Union Station.)
10. Cemeteries. This is a big deal. You can take a cemetery tour, but I prefer just to walk them by myself. My favorite is in the Garden District at Washington and Prytania (Streetcar stop at Washington avenue, then a block toward the river), but it's only open 7am to 3pm. St. Louis #1 is on the edge of the quarter, quite close to your hotel, open 9am to 3pm. However, this one has been known to be a little sketch with regards to robberies and such. Less in recent years, but its proximity to a rough naighborhood makes it less favorable for me. If you go in a group, you'll be safe.
11. Walk the moonwalk. The strip in front of the river from Esplanade Ave up to Canal St is a great walk. Very breezy and lots of river traffic.
Bars:
1. Talked about Pat O's. Do it.
2. My personal favorite night hangout used to be Johnny White's Hole in the Wall. http://www.johnnywhitesfrenchquarter.com/hole%20in%20the%20wall.html at 718 Bourbon, across from Bourbon Heat. It has closed for a number of reasons, along with its siblings, the Original bar and the Corner Bar. Many of the locals that haunted that place have moved over to…
3. The Boondock Saint. This is on St. Peter directly across from Pat O’Briens. This bar is very much a local’s joint in the French Quarter, which is odd given its proximity to Bourbon St. It’s open late night (not quite 24 hours, but deep into the dark hours), and one of the four TVs always runs Boondock Saints on a loop. It’s a good sit-and-meet-new-people kind of place. Don’t miss the latest bit of fun, the three mystery shots!
4. Old Absinthe House Bar. http://www.ruebourbon.com/old-absinthe-house/ Bourbon and Bienville. Busy, but interesting bar. Open fireplace in the back, serves absinthe. Has Tom Dempsey's shoe hanging from the cieling (63-yard field goal at sea level, Nov 1970).
5. Voodoo Lounge. https://www.yelp.com/biz/voodoo-lounge-new-orleans 24x7, three blocks down Rampart from the hotel. Decent selection. Decent bartenders. I've watched the sun come up from this bar lots of times.
6. Black Penny. https://www.facebook.com/BlackPennyNola/ Closer to the hotel on Rampart. Newer bar with a focus on craft beers. Darkish place, with a strange split bar, but the staff is very knowledgeable and friendly..
7. Bar Tonique. http://bartonique.com/ I don't go here, but it's a well respected bar of mixology. About 5 blocks from hotel on Rampart.
8. Need LATE night food and a drink? Buffa's on Esplanade in the 1000 block http://www.buffasbar.com/. I've also chased the sun here on more than one occasion. (NOTE: For the time being, 1am is closing time. COVID staffing is pinching everyone.)
Hope this helps.
